Success! My heliotropin hangup has been sorted! Chypre-Siam shall now remain in constant production. The last batch sold out almost instantly before the lull. April was a long and frustrating month, trying to go through hoops and bounds, sourcing the needed material. With the new batches will also come higher quality materials. The vanilla and orris tinctures I used previously have been replaced with vanilla bean and orris resinoids. The juice is noticeably darker as a result, like those ultra-vintage bottles of Coty’s Chypre! My new inventory of oakmoss absolute is much much darker too so that adds to the much darker color of the juice. Remember, I will not change my formulas except to source better and higher quality materials.
40 Love Update:
The 40 Love resurrection project is nearly complete. I’ve pored over the GCMS results and have managed to reverse engineer the long discontinued juice. I will begin listing the resurrection in my shop in about a month. I’ve been apprehensive about this project from the beginning but I will definitely push forward. My main concern is that I do justice to the original fragrance this pays homage to, and I want to make quite clear that this is NOT my formula but a reconstruction of a long dead fragrance. The moment these resurrection projects begin to feel distasteful and cheap I will cease their production. I am not going to be some cheap knockoff hawker! The next resurrection in line is a very obscure and exciting fragrance with an interesting story which I will discuss in a later post.
Back in December I was conversing via email with a fellow Basenoter who is very fond of vintage fragrances. It turns out that he possesses a rare bottle of Jean Desprez’s 40 Love and this generous Basenoter even mailed me a decant!
40 Love, released in the 1940’s, has been discontinued for quite some time. I cannot begin to imagine why; it is a wonderful, soft masculine chypre, somewhat like Dunhill for Men (1934). Both are of the same category but Dunhill steers in a complex direction of soft leather, iris and woods; its lemony opening seems to set a serious tone upon the first spritz. 40 Love is simpler, brighter, it’s fun and carefree.
My very generous decant of 40 Love
With Dunhill I can picture a reserved, business-minded gentleman in a neatly tailored, worsted wool waistcoat and silk tie…maybe even spats over his patent leather shoes. The wearer of 40 Love, rather, would indeed be a gentleman but dressed in roomy heathered pleat trousers, polo shirt and spectator shoes.
My decant still holds some bright topnotes. I detect orange oil, bergamot and some petitgrain before a neroli-jasmine accord steps forward. At the drydown is some sort of amber base, smooth vetiver, cool moss and a deer-like musk with little civet facets…upon further review, what I detect as civet facets may actually be cresyl notes which were popular back in the day for building white florals like narcissus. Smelled on their own cresyls can come off as something between a freshly run horse and mothballs.
So here’s the idea: I want to resurrect 40 Love to preserve its memory and its availability for other frag-heads to enjoy. I’m sending out a tiny bit of this frag for GC/MS analysis. It can be a bit pricey; anywhere from $200 up, depending on how detailed one wants their results. I will then work on deciphering the results and begin the process of reverse engineering the formula. All in all this project can take up to a year.
I want to be tasteful and very up front about this project and its intention of offering a glimpse of a long discontinued fragrance. I’m not in the business of selling knockoffs as my own.