Tag: hay

Fougere L’Aube now available!

IMG_20190214_101909_489

Golden dewdrops sparkle upon lush green ferns. Fougere L’Aube is cool and fresh, like the brisk air that surrounds the glow of the morning sun.

Notes include: Lavender, Green Citrus, Galbanum, Geranium, Hay, Moroccan Rose, Amber, Camphor, Sandalwood, Oakmoss, Musk and Costus

About:
I built the initial base structure of Fougere L’Aube as a classic 1930s fragrance which yielded a cozy, classic scent. It was reminiscent of the men’s colognes and aftershaves I smelled as a child; very nostalgic, very familiar.
I then took this base formula and accentuated it with a few modern aroma chems and the fragrance was completely transformed into a super-fresh late 1980s style fougere. It’s a bit of a projection monster.

Fougere L’Aube opens promptly with bright lavender and citrus notes, backed with bitter green galbanum.
What I find interesting is that although a large portion of the fragrance is built on rose and sandalwood, what I perceive is not an attar-like note in the middle but rather it melds into the ‘fougere effect’ through and through.

From what you see in the color of the juice, I used a rather large percentage of naturals; a few of which include: lavender absolute and essential oil, real Indian sandalwood (santalum album), Moroccan rose absolute, pure cold-pressed bergamot, petitgrain bigarade coeur from Robertet and oakmoss absolute.

Ingredients:  SD Alcohol, Fragrance, Coumarin, Linalool, Lyral, Citronellol, Limonene, Farnesol, Oakmoss, Alpha Isomethyl Ionone, Citral, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Isoeugenol, Musk Xylol, Eugenol, Methyl octine carbonate

Fougere L’Aube Update

Label_FLA

Yesterday I uncapped the resting formula for Fougere L’Aube to evaluate its progress and was pleasantly surprised.
The modern embellishments only occupy around 5% of the formula but the difference is a world apart!

My original concept for Fougere L’Aube was to create a simple old-school fougere, using historically correct ingredients and then tweak it from there. And so I did.
The original base formula is a bit animalic due to the play between the costus and musk. It has the slightly bitter, dry grassiness of coumarin underlying plenty of aromatic lavender and citrus… it’s a good textbook fougere with echoes that fall somewhere between vintage Fougere Royale, Canoe and Caron Pour Homme. I used some spicy clove notes to give more warmth against the amber.

And then came the tweaks. I began by giving eastern hints by boosting the sandalwood and then adding Moroccan rose absolute and camphor. I boosted the effects of the Hydroxycitronellal with Lyral because I find it to be a beautiful performing chem. Beyond that, I used a few modern chems in trace amounts (as little as one tenth of 1%) to accentuate the individual notes. The result: the fragrance, although very vintage in structure, is propelled right into the present and completely changed. It is completely different than the base formula; it is bright, it sparkles and it is lively. Fougere L’Aube still conveys its original ‘warmth of the morning sun’ but also the brisk spring morning air. The fragrance eventually settles down into the constantly radiating musk base. The musk xylol helps tie it together into a soft old-world savon fragrance at the drydown phase.

IMG_20190203_084404

A close-up of the beaker. Look at the color of that juice! A result of the high percentage of oakmoss and other naturals.

The juice is dark green from the high percentage of oakmoss and other natural absolutes and essential oils in the formula. And from that dark green juice the brightest topnotes seem to leap right out of the bottle! I’m excited about this release. The formula has been resting but will soon be ready for bottling. Just in time for spring.

A Warm Fougere for a Cool Spring

fougere_laube

Available soon: Fougere L’Aube

Golden dewdrops sparkle upon lush green ferns.
Fougere L’Aube is fresh with the warm glow of the morning sun.
Very vintage and classic in style, it will appeal to the old soul in us all.
Notes include: Lavender, Mandarin, Galbanum, Geranium, Hay, Camphor, Moroccan Rose, Amber, Sandalwood, Oakmoss, Musk and Costus.
Nothing really new here stylistically folks, rather I designed this fragrance to have a very 1930s feel with a few modern touches. I used musk xylol, lots of coumarin and a much larger amount of naturals than I initially expected, about 50%. It is bracing, rustic, warm and cozy. Available in time for spring.
%d bloggers like this: