Chypre-Siam is Here to Stay! Plus, a 40 Love Update

Success! My heliotropin hangup has been sorted! Chypre-Siam shall now remain in constant production. The last batch sold out almost instantly before the lull. April was a long and frustrating month, trying to go through hoops and bounds, sourcing the needed material. With the new batches will also come higher quality materials. The vanilla and [...]

Chypre-Siam’s Achilles’ Heel

My supply of heliotropin has run low! While this ingredient is not restricted for use in perfumery; it is not IFRA recommendations standing in the way, rather it is the DEA. The distribution of heliotropin is heavily regulated because boneheads use it as a precursor to manufacture ecstasy. As a result, this most recent batch [...]

Fougere L’Aube Update

Yesterday I uncapped the resting formula for Fougere L'Aube to evaluate its progress and was pleasantly surprised. The modern embellishments only occupy around 5% of the formula but the difference is a world apart! My original concept for Fougere L'Aube was to create a simple old-school fougere, using historically correct ingredients and then tweak it [...]

A Warm Fougere for a Cool Spring

Available soon: Fougere L'Aube Golden dewdrops sparkle upon lush green ferns. Fougere L'Aube is fresh with the warm glow of the morning sun. Very vintage and classic in style, it will appeal to the old soul in us all. Notes include: Lavender, Mandarin, Galbanum, Geranium, Hay, Camphor, Moroccan Rose, Amber, Sandalwood, Oakmoss, Musk and Costus. [...]

Resurrecting the Past

Can this old gem be brought back to life? Back in December I was conversing via email with a fellow Basenoter who is very fond of vintage fragrances. It turns out that he possesses a rare bottle of Jean Desprez's 40 Love and this generous Basenoter even mailed me a decant! 40 Love, released in [...]

…aaand touchdown!

The new batches of Mouse Illuminee and Chypre-Siam are now being bottled and will be available for purchase. Late last autumn, when the original batches reached their halfway point, I immediately set out to begin formulating new ones. Then arrived the hurdles! I already had most of the aroma chemicals and organic materials on hand, [...]

New Batches Underway!

Chypre-Siam has been a steady seller this year and the supply is running low. I am presently finishing my amber bases and jasmine base to formulate a new batch. Chypre-Siam should be ready for bottling by early 2019. For my amber bases I procure my labdanum and other oils and resins from Eden Botanicals. The [...]