Spring 2020 – Looking Ahead

I'm constantly thumbing through my notebook of "sketches" for future fragrances. Constantly trying to decide which ideas get priority for the coming year. This past April I had planned to release Ishtar, but just before I jumped into the formulation phase I pulled back and it never left its prototype status.  Originally Ishtar was an [...]

Chypre-Siam is Here to Stay! Plus, a 40 Love Update

Success! My heliotropin hangup has been sorted! Chypre-Siam shall now remain in constant production. The last batch sold out almost instantly before the lull. April was a long and frustrating month, trying to go through hoops and bounds, sourcing the needed material. With the new batches will also come higher quality materials. The vanilla and [...]

Chypre-Siam’s Achilles’ Heel

My supply of heliotropin has run low! While this ingredient is not restricted for use in perfumery; it is not IFRA recommendations standing in the way, rather it is the DEA. The distribution of heliotropin is heavily regulated because boneheads use it as a precursor to manufacture ecstasy. As a result, this most recent batch [...]

Fougere L’Aube Update

Yesterday I uncapped the resting formula for Fougere L'Aube to evaluate its progress and was pleasantly surprised. The modern embellishments only occupy around 5% of the formula but the difference is a world apart! My original concept for Fougere L'Aube was to create a simple old-school fougere, using historically correct ingredients and then tweak it [...]

Resurrecting the Past

Can this old gem be brought back to life? Back in December I was conversing via email with a fellow Basenoter who is very fond of vintage fragrances. It turns out that he possesses a rare bottle of Jean Desprez's 40 Love and this generous Basenoter even mailed me a decant! 40 Love, released in [...]

…aaand touchdown!

The new batches of Mouse Illuminee and Chypre-Siam are now being bottled and will be available for purchase. Late last autumn, when the original batches reached their halfway point, I immediately set out to begin formulating new ones. Then arrived the hurdles! I already had most of the aroma chemicals and organic materials on hand, [...]

New Batches Underway!

Chypre-Siam has been a steady seller this year and the supply is running low. I am presently finishing my amber bases and jasmine base to formulate a new batch. Chypre-Siam should be ready for bottling by early 2019. For my amber bases I procure my labdanum and other oils and resins from Eden Botanicals. The [...]