Rogue Perfumery – unhindered fragrance art. No EU restrictions!
Chef, by trade, since 1993. My independent perfumery study began in 2007 when I tried (and failed miserably) to produce a fragrance with some essential oils purchased from the local health foods store. It immediately became an obsession which led me to ten years of researching and studying perfumery principles, history, and aroma chemicals.
I began creating fragrances out of pure fascination. The more I learned and practiced the more I began to discover recognizable accords and effects in many of my favorite fragrances. It became addictive!
Eventually, after much time and trial and error, I began composing fragrances as a push-back to the systematic destruction of the classics. Between IFRA recommendations and EU regulations entire genres of classic fragrances are being either discontinued or completely reformulated.
I create fragrances according to “sketches” and note structures that appeal to me. I can’t say I’ve made anything groundbreaking; I just make what I enjoy. I hope you too will enjoy my perfumes.
First Two Fragrances:
The idea for this fragrance came to me after sampling Coty’s original Chypre back in 2012. I was already a fan of the genre, but Coty’s original was THE epitome; I could smell the framework of so many of my favorite fragrances that were slowly disappearing from production.
I was in my garden picking kaffir lime leaves for a curry my wife and I were preparing for dinner, and their bright fragrance instantly reminded me of the Chypre de Coty sample from days prior. I smelled the leaves again and realized that I was also catching whiffs of the jasmine blossoms on the other side of the yard! That was the moment; I thought how novel it would be to recreate, not the original Chypre, but rather the experience of the original using Southeast Asian materials (namely kaffir lime, holy basil and lemongrass -jasmine, ylang etc, of course, have already been mainstays of the perfumers palette).
Chypre-Siam took five years to complete. I’ve created a beautiful jasmine base that utilizes an even lovelier jasmine absolute, which helps meld the civet notes seamlessly into the benzoin base. What you get in the end is a “chypre experience” moreso than just of a list of notes. I wanted this fragrance to be able to briefly transport one back 90+ years.
In 2012 when I was working on the formula for Chypre-Siam, one of my many experiments had a woody accord that vaguely reminded me of the original Carlo Corinto. I set it aside. A few weeks later I was scouring the internet for an affordable replacement bottle of Guerlain Derby, then the idea hit: Can I somehow rework that Carlo Corinto-like woody accord into something more along the lines of Derby? Probably not, but I can perhaps rework it into the bone-dry woody notes in One Man Show and Krizia Uomo and turn out a woody chypre fragrance. And so it began!
The prototypes went through many changes over the course of five years. I eventually decided to make it a tobacco fragrance on a woody, chypre base and created a deep green rosey, jasmine carnation-like base to tie the two together. I added some sandalwood notes to tame the dry cedar base and Tabac Vert was finally born.
Some have actually compared Tabac Vert to Vintage Tabarome -I can actually see the similarities. I originally wanted a Derby-like fragrance but instead took hints from Krizia and Bogart. At the end of the day Tabac Vert just is what it is: A classic old-school style woody chypre.